Before the Canon G11 I was carrying a Canon S3 which is too big to handle underwater. Seeing the quality of the G11, as well as its relatively small size, I couldn’t resist buying its affordable waterproof case companion for my occasional scuba trips. I did not buy the G11 for its underwater abilities, although it did cross my mind. That said, for some the Canon S90 might be more convenient for scuba photography because of its smaller size and similar abilities. Canon offers the WP-DC34, an affordable  waterproof case, capable of going down to 130ft or 40 meters.

Structure

The Canon WP-DC34 is well-built. Almost fully made of plastic it somewhat reminds me of a toy.The inside tube which holds the zoom lens is made of rubber. Under the case there’s a metal tripod mount, which allows you to connect a tripod or other equipment. There are four strap mounts giving you the freedom to attach a strap anywhere on the case. This waterproof case comes unsealed to keep the large O-ring safe. This O-ring needs replacing every year, according to the manual.

On the front, there’s an indentation to which you connect the diffusion plate that comes with the camera. This plate allows the flash light to spread all over the photographs. Using the flash without the diffusion plate isn’t recommended, as the photograph may have dark areas.

Button Accessibility

Access is maintained to all buttons on the camera, except for the control dial on the back.  This is the dial that you turn right or left to change some of the settings or select a special mode in SCN mode. There’s a way to imitate this functionality by clicking the Shortcut button together with the right or left buttons. This way you have access to all dials and buttons.

Size and weight

This case is large; as large as a DSLR camera! Have this in mind in case you intend to take it while traveling, like I plan to. One of the reasons it’s so large is to support the x5 zoom of the Canon G11. It is indeed fully supported. Its weight (not including the camera)  is 575 grams (20.3 oz), and its dimensions are 153.5 x 107.5 x 119.1 mm (6.04 x 4.23 x 4.69 inch).

What’s in the box

Inside the box are the underwater case, a wrist strap, a neck strap (although Canon advise against using it underwater), a flash diffuser and a tube of silicon grease, used for greasing the O-ring, and a user manual.

Summary

The user manual warns so many times against misuse which may lead to leaks. You must keep the interior clean and dry, and never get it wet. The large yellow O-ring requires extreme gentle care. You have to grease it fully before usage. This requires the removal of the entire O-ring, giving it treatment with a droplet of silicon grease. You must not use another substance. After usage you have to soak the case in clean water for a few hours (sealed!), and never leave it under direct sunlight as it may damage the case. Also, it is important to store this case open (unsealed) to keep the health of the O-ring.

All these warnings kept me thinking if the result of underwater photography is actually worth putting such expensive equipment in danger. I for one can’t wait testing this case in my next scuba session. The first thing I’m going to do is go deep with the case with no camera inside to test for leaks, then take it for a real dive.

There’s a supplementary item that you can buy for this case – weights to keep it buoyant (prevent it from floating you up when diving). This item goes into the tripod mount, but I intend to attach a waterproof flashlight instead to achieve two tasks at the same time. I will discuss this idea in a future article.

Links

Canon WP-DC34 Underwater Housing for Canon PowerShot G11 Digital Camera ($175@ Amazon)

Canon WWDC1 Weight for Canon Waterproof and All Weather Cases ($27 @ Amazon)

Scuba Diving with Canon PowerShot G11

Not every Canon camera was privileged enough to get a CHDK version. The Canon G10, for example doesn’t have one! Fortunately, my initial request (back in November 2009) was accepted by some talented developers. The Canon G11 today is much more advanced and feature-rich than its predecessor, the Canon G10. CHDK makes a big difference.

Highlights

Longer exposure times than 15 seconds, shoot video with optical zoom, Super-Fine,  live over-exposure view, live edge view, file manager, advanced scripting.

A few words about installation

I will not discuss the process of CHDK installation in this article. I have not mastered this process yet. I can say that it is not a straight-forward process. There are certain limitations to using CHDK such as the requirement of using memory cards sized 4GB or smaller. As far as I can tell, using memory cards bigger than 4GB requires a complex procedure which I have not looked into as of yet.

Even when using a 4GB card, you  need to mess with the memory card lock switch. These limitation are due to the fact that “The G11 CHDK DOES NOT support the manual loading method through the firmware update mechanism!” (stated on the CHDK G11 web page). It means that you cannot use the firmware update option to load CHDK into memory. I hope it will be changed in the future.

Operating the G11 CHDK (Alt mode)

After loading the G11 CHDK, click the Shortcut key to switch into Alt mode. This is where the magic is done. Click Menu to see the alternative CHDK menu. You can always go back to the normal mode by clicking the Shortcut key again. Use the arrow keys to browse through the menu, and the Display key to go back.

Main Menu:

• Extra Photo Operations (photography related options)
• Video Parameters (video related options)
• RAW parameters (raw options, irrelevant to G11)
• Edge overlay (live edge view)
• Histogram parameters (live histogram, irrelevant to G11)
• Zebra parameters (live over-exposure or under-exposure options)
• OSD parameters (control the extra OSD features for CHDK)
• Visual settings (extra visual settings)
• Scripting parameters (load your own scripts!)
• Miscellaneous stuff (text file reader, games, etc.)

G11 CHDK exciting features

CHDK was initially developed for far less advanced cameras than the G11. That means some features overlap with current features of the G11. For example: RAW and live histogram.

Photography values override: CHDK allows you to override internal limitations such as the shutter speed limit (of 15 seconds). You can take photographs using much higher values. I have taken a photograph exposed for 50 seconds. There are many other options to override such as the aperture value, image quality (get the SuperFine back!), and more.

Video values override: CHDK lets you override internal video limitations such as using the optical zoom while taking videos! This is one of the major annoyances in the G11. You may also control video quality and much more.

Edge overlay: Show live edges of the photograph you’re taking. Basically this draws lines over the image you’re seeing.

Zebra overlay: This exciting feature lets you see the over-exposure (as well as under-exposure) areas on the live image you’re taking. If there’s a true black or burned white you will see it before taking the photograph!

OSD parameters: The CHDK has its own set of OSD visuals. Unfortunately you cannot control both Canon’s and CHDK’s visuals from this menu, but there are some advanced visuals such as a clock, temperatures (CCD, optical or battery), accurate battery meter, accurate space left on your memory card, DOF calculator, and more. There’s also a grid layout editor, you can actually define your own custom grids and show them on the screen. The OSD layout editor lets you move the visuals across the screen so they won’t hide the original camera’s visuals.

Scripting parameters: By using the scripting engine of CHDK you can load custom scripts or write your own. Such scripts include taking a photograph every X seconds automatically, which can be used to replace expensive remote controls, and lets you take pictures of changing scenes or the stars in the sky.

Miscellaneous stuff: Now this is the cool part. There is a file browser which lets you copy and delete files. This is especially useful if you want to free some space when you have MP3 files on this memory card but don’t want to format when you’re in the field. There’s also a calendar, a few games, and more.

Summary

Because of its current limitations, I’m now using CHDK for test purposes only, or for specific tasks. I would like to use it with some of my 8GB or 16GB memory cards without enslaving them to the camera (using multiple partitions on the same card may cause problems with certain media players or other devices that do not support them).

I’d like to thank all those who contributed and still contributing to this project! New builds are published frequently, check the download page on a regular basis.

CHDK is a hack, meaning it is not supported by Canon. Carefully read the instructions before installing and using this piece of software.

Links

CHDK Homepage

CHDK for Canon PowerShot G11

There are two problems with that two-parts adapter:

1. Blocked Zoom – using only one part of the adapter you can get perfect pictures but you cannot use the zoom feature as the camera’s lens gets stuck in the filter or extra lens, thus making the camera to shut down.

2. Vignetted Images – using both parts of the adapter you can use the zoom, but when the zoom is not used, the camera gets vignetted images. That means you see a black circle over the edges of the photographs.

There’s not much to do about the blocked zoom. It is caused because the zoom can reach longer than the space the first part of the adapter allows. To allow you use the full zoom you need to put the filter further away from the camera. Then comes the other problem of vignetting. This phenomenon occurs because some of the light that comes to the camera’s lens is blocked, resulting with a black circle over the edges.

Solving the vignetting problem, involves using a wider adapter part. That can be achieved with the expensive lensmate that has small problems of its own, or use a technique I first read about a forum (if I find the link I’ll add it in the future).

All you need to get is a step-up rings set 58mm to 77mm from eBay. This is actually a set of aluminum rings that can screw to each other to form a cone. This shape allows you to use the zoom without any vignetting. The cone allows more light get to the camera’s lens, thus eliminating vignetting.

The set I’ve bough costs about $12. It includes seven step-up rings. Three of which I do not use at all:

49-52mm, 52-55mm, 55-58mm, 58-62mm, 62-67mm, 67-72mm, 72-77mm.

You also have to buy an aluminum adapter tube 58mm ($6 – $12). Make sure you get the one that has two detachable parts. You will only use the bottom part.

Instructions

1. Remove the protective ring (click the button) from the camera.

2. Attach the bottom part of the aluminum adapter tube. That should give you a 58mm adapter.

3. Attach step-up rings by screwing them one by one into the adapter and over each other. You need 58-62mm, 62-67mm, 67-72mm, 72-77mm.

Finally you get a 77mm adapter to which you can attach any 77mm filter! That’s a cheap and convenient solution that costs less than $20 if you can find the good deals in eBay.

When you use this setup, your camera will have a slight angle when put on a desk (4mm on the side closer to the adapter). This shouldn’t interfere with photography at all.

Compared to Lensmate

The other alternative is the more expensive one, but not only is more expensive, but rumors say there is a little vignetting when the zoom not used with certain filters. That is caused due to their usage of a 72mm instead of a 77mm one (I didn’t test this!).

The lensmate website specifies there is no vignetting using their “A” + “B” adapter (72mm), but later on that page it is also specified that it might occur under some circumstances.

“3. Why not make a 77mm lens adapter?

When the potential for small amounts of vignetting was weighed against making a larger diameter part, we decided that 72mm was the sweet spot for several reasons. First, to make a larger part would require a costly custom aluminum extrusion with a large minimum order requirement. Extra cost to the consumer. Because of maximum size limitations of the CNC equipment being used.”

Part “A”  (which is the basic adapter tube) costs $24.95

Part “B” (which is similar to the step-up rings set)  costs $22.95

Those two costs together about $48 + shipping.

Conclusion

Using this solution vs the Lensmate solution has other ramifications. On the first you use 77mm filters which are bigger, sometimes more expensive. The second one uses 72mm filters. You may make your decision based on filters you already have from other cameras, or DSLR cameras you are going to purchase in the future. Don’t forget you can always use a step-up ring on the Lensmate or remove one ring from the step-up rings set. These actions might affect vignetting a little, but it is possible.

The main problem is that Canon sells a cheap plastic adapter which is not considered having as high quality as the camera itself.

However, it is possible to get an even better replacement for this adapter, made out of aluminum instead of plastic.

Keep reading to get more information.

Both Canon PowerShot G10 and G11 use the same adapter so if you’ve previously bought an adapter for the G10, you can use it with your G11.

The thing you have to remember about G11 adapters is that you must get such an adapter that has two parts. If you fail to do so, you may experience vignetting when taking your photographs.

Vignetting basically results with a photograph that has a black circle over its edges. It results from a long adapters blocking the lens’ sight.

Review

These adapters are sold on eBay from either Hong Kong or China. Their price range is about $6 – $12 for an aluminum tube. However, the tube is not perfect. Using the two parts together you will experience vignetting when the zoom is on its wide end. You would have to zoom-in till the black circle disappears.

In order to avoid that side-effect,  use only one part of the tube. This way there’s no vignetting, but there’s also a down-side: You cannot use the zoom up to its full range because the G11’s lens is blocked by the external filter or lens you’re using.

The two parts are made of aluminum. They screw into each other, so you can easily separate them apart. I this adapter to be of good quality. The threads required lubing but other than that, it sits tight on the G11 and does not move at all.

Installation

In order to install, press on the black bottom-right button on the front of your G11, and rotate the ring anti clock-wise till it is removed. Put the adapter tube in the same place while making sure the red dot on the adapter is a little over the button. Rotate it clock-wide till you hear the locking sound.

More Solutions

I read in one of the forums about a creative solution requiring one part of the tube and a set of step-up rings. This solution, which I will discuss in a separate article, enables you to completely avoid vignetting at the wide end of the zoom, and be able to use to zoom however you want.

An alternative to this tube would be a lensmate adapter, which I will also discuss in a different article. To make it short, I didn’t like the Lensmate solution as it’s expensive and have some limitations.

Click HQ to watch in High Quality

“Some great deep dive video and photos taken on seperate dives on the Zen. Camera used was mostly a Canon G11 or G10. This video is compiled over many dives so please bear this in mind if you are planning a dive trip to the Zen.” (MrDiveman1971)

Click HQ to watch in High Quality

“I have almost always used Canon P&S and the G11 is the very best I have used. Only had it two days, but love the shots and how it handles.” (dougste)

Check them full-size here

“These are a few night shots taken on a recent trip to Ghent. All are handheld straight out of camera JPEGS. The only PP is straightening & cropping.” (Stephenbw)

See them full-size in the original thread

If you open the small door on the right side of the G11, you see four sockets. One of which is a 2.5″ round socket where the remote switch’s connector goes.

This 2.5″ socket is made for the original Canon RS-60E3 remote, but since it’s a rather simple mechanism you can get a compatible remote switch on eBay from China or Hong Kong which would do the job just as well.

In order to use you simply have to connect the 2.5″ connector to your camera. No other settings are required!

To take a shot click on the gray button. You can keep it pressed to take multiple shots.

Lock the button to get infinite photographs

Aside from taking a picture using a remote cable, you can use your remote to take an infinite number of photographs by locking the switch button. This makes your camera take photographs until the memory card is full.

Actual Use

I find this remote switch useful for two purposes:

1. Take pictures when the camera is on a tripod. Especially when the camera is mounted on a light-weighted tripod when every shake might interfere. This switch lets you avoid touching the camera, thus the pictures turn better.

2. Take pictures of yourself while holding the camera with your hand or placed on an object up to 90cm from you. This can be a useful replacement for a tripod when you’re traveling and want a photo of yourself without the hassle of setting up a tripod or asking someone to take your picture. Usually the problem with these shots is not holding the camera, but clicking the shutter button on the camera while you’re doing it. This one makes it easier. Accompanied with the G11’s wide lens they make a great combo for self photography.

Size & Handling

While the remote switch shutter release does work pretty well with the Canon PowerShot G11, it also works with entry-level Canon DSLR cameras. It means the device is a little bulky for carrying along with a compact camera. However, it is comfortable for holding in hand. The switch itself is 10cm long. The cable is 90cm long. Everything else is pretty mechanic so there’s nothing much to go wrong.

There’s no battery required so you can practically use it forever whenever.

The original Canon product is inexpensive and the non-Canon are really cheap. If you enjoy experimenting with your camera, this is an accessory to consider.

I’ve ordered one of these switches marked JIANSI from eBay. The price on eBay varies from $5 to $10. As long as you feel comfortable with the risks of buying from eBay you’re good to go.

Links

You can get a similar remote switch here with free shipping from HK for $6.85

Original Canon RS-60E3 for Canon G11 from Amazon.com ($19.44)

Original Canon RS-60E3 for Canon G11 from B&H Photo Video ($25.95)

Original price of $500 has just dropped to $439

[AD]

If you’ve been considering this camera, then now is the time to get it with free shipping and $61 discount.

.

Links

Canon PowerShot G11 (Buy on Amazon.com) $439 USD including free shipping

Canon PowerShot G11 (Buy on B&H Photo Video) $439.95 USD including free shipping

Check it out. Click HQ to watch in High Quality.

“Climbing by Headlamp. Video Experiment with Canon G11″ (iangreant)

Now the final release is out for you to download. Adobe has just released RAW support for newest cameras in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom and Adobe Photoshop CS4 (as a plug-in). Two of these cameras are Canon PowerShot G11 and Canon PowerShot S90.

Download it here:

Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 2.6 – multiple languages

Adobe Photoshop Camera RAW 5.6 Update

Adobe Photoshop Elements Camera RAW 5.6 Update

See latest releases from Adobe for Windows and Macintosh here

List of newly supported cameras by Adobe

• Canon EOS 7D
• Canon PowerShot G11
• Canon PowerShot S90
• Leaf Aptus II 5
• Mamiya DM22, DM28, DM33, DM56, M18, M22, M31
• Nikon D3s
• Olympus E-P2
• Pentax K-x
• Panasonic FZ38
• Sigma DP1s
• Sony A500
• Sony A550
• Sony A850

Links

Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 2 ($266 @ Amazon)

Adobe Photoshop CS4 ($642 @ Amazon)

But what if you still want to take the shot using wrong settings? You may find that the G11 takes over and automatically changes your values to what it thinks is best for you.

This feature is called Safety Shift. While it may be useful at times, sometimes you want to leave this decision for your own judgement. This is definitely not a bug but a camera “feature” that you can easily fix.

Keep reading to see how it can be done.

I have already discussed the benefits of Safety Shift in a previous article. This time we look at the situation from a different angle.

Before disabling Safety Shift, it is recommended that you read that article so you realize what you’re losing.

Follow these steps to disable Safety Shift:

1. Click the MENU button.

2. In the camera tab browse for Safety Shift and switch it to OFF.

Problem solved.